Jamaica’s Black River Clear Water Wetlands

The egrets maintain their stately presence within abundant lianas, while creatures sing songs of life which echo through the vast mangroves along the river as the tourist boat parts the waters.

Translucent water splashes across the bough of the Black River Safari boat juxtaposed by the darkness beneath its surface.

Freshwater Wetland

Venture into the largest freshwater wetland ecosystem in Jamaica. A guest in the lower morass wetlands is welcomed with unique wildlife, and according to the Important Bird Areas Fact sheet, there are 92 species of flowering plants, with many rare species among them.

Here you feel both the majesty and fragility of nature on this island in the sun. Herons fly back and forth to their nests in the mangroves teeming with unseen but noisy wildlife.

The passenger boats come like carrion to pick at the last vestiges of its beauty. This is a country where the motto is “Out of many, One people” a reflection of the diversity in the population calling this island home, a culture which deals with the reality of high crime, low employment and a passion for resistance.

The Black river is an ecological paradise once thought to be the longest river in Jamaica at 53.4 Km, but is only surpassed by the Rio Minho at 92.8 km. Running through the parish of St. Elizabeth, the river gave its name to the capital of the parish.

Indigenous Stronghold

Originating in the mountains of Cockpit Country, Jamaica, Black River runs underground to surface in St. Elizabeth parish. An historically affluent colonial town once run by wealthy merchants, the first to have electricity and cars in Jamaica.

Before colonization, the area was an indigenous stronghold, inhabited by people the Jamaicans, and the world, were mislead to believe completely disappeared from the island after contact with the Europeans – The Taino nation. Jamaican Tainos, like Dr. Erica Neeganagwedgin, are reclaiming their past.

“Tainos are alive and well throughout Jamaica – just that many people do not know …..”The Government knows that we exist, and I know that the Government knows that there are Taino people in St Elizabeth,”

Dr Erica Neeganagwedgin, Ph.D. (Taino) is an Associate Professor in Critical Policy, Equity and Leadership Studies at Western University’s Faculty of Education.

Ecology

In its journey the Black river becomes part of nature’s trinity in its confluence with the Great Morass and Milk river. A place of:

Mudflats – form an important part of the initial food chain. The silt formed by the mud and sand is carried in by the tributaries and provides shell fish with nutritious plankton.

Mangroves – These shrubs or trees grow in the river and help to prevent soil erosion via their thick root system.

Limestone Islands – according to a recent report Jamaica’s largest mineral resource is limestone. The extraction of this resource leaves open pits so it will be interesting to see how the country balances the ecological concerns as opposed to profit.

During a brief sojourn in Jamaica as a tween I recall a time in high school spent watching the sea the through the classroom window. Maybe that is how I missed the story of this land and the place where the crocodiles swam. Where involuntarily transported humans found new but similar vegetation to that which was left behind in their homelands using it as a way to repair their fractured lives.

The renowned Caribbean scholar, choreographer and renaissance man, Rex Nettleford noted:

The ongoing struggle by those who seek recognition and status in human terms demands from all with the gift of knowledge and insight, the commitment of self in the continuing development of humankind. For stronger than war, which dehumanizes, humiliates and destroys, is indeed the love of life.’

Rex Nettleford- Speech to the United Nations, March 26, 2007- on the occasion of the 200th Anniversary of the Trans-Atlantic Slave Trade

Lobster fishing

The boat passes local fishermen as they trap lobsters and crabs along the river. The captain had one of the traps handy for viewing. The hand woven baskets are a work of art themselves. The intricate woven style of the baskets of Thatch Palm (Sabal jamaicensis) and Swamp palm (Royslonea Princeps), are fashioned after traps used by the ancestral sea coast dwellers from Congo, and like the human cargo brought to this island by human traffickers, the trap allows the lobster to crawl in but not to escape.

Clear Water Appears Black

The bottom of the river bed is the final resting place of its flora. As it decomposes and transitions the water appears black.

This wetland will also make you breathe deeply as the smell of methane is sometimes given up by the rich peat earth which surrounds the river.

As you stare deep into the Mangroves you wonder which spot will catch a fire, as the captain tells you that sometimes the sun ignites the methane and the resulting fire will smolder for days. Be careful where you light your spliff.

Giant red, and two other mangrove species provide a sanctuary for a variety of wildlife, with over 100 species of nesting birds, which include Bitterns and Egrets, which provide a dazzling display as their guests meander down the river.

American crocodiles

Moving regally through the dangling lianas are the rock stars of the river, the rare and endangered American crocodiles (Crocodylus acutus), they should be called Jamaican crocodiles, as the Jamaican coat of arms sets the crocodile above the Royal Helmet of the British Monarchy in its crest. This may portend the end of the commonwealth relations as Jamaica seeks to become a republic.

They are uniquely chill. Born and bred on the river, these reptiles are far from the man eating, snapping specimens featured in horror movies.

The locals show them respect and it is returned. As if to show the peaceful co existence between the species in this area the boat captain reached out to touch the snout of a crocodile before the start or the tour. No problem, for him but not advised for the uninitiated.

The concern is that this wetland is becoming increasingly polluted. No one knows what the future holds. This tour allows an opportunity to experience a beautiful and rare eco system while encouraging local participation in ecotourism.

The Jamaican writer, Roland Grant wrote a very poignant story published in the Caribbean literary journal Pree, about humans sharing habitat conundrum.

Our boat captain knew the names of particular crocodiles along the river, and even though most seemed quite tame, you can never be sure with crocodiles. I wouldn’t want any to shed crocodile tears over me.

The largest crocodile found in the river at that time was 16ft., and they can live up to 100yrs. The stories they could tell. Traditional stories were brought with humans from Africa in the Anancy stories.

“The crocodile is a powerful creature – the crocodile can devour a human being who is crossing a river.”

Norman Z. Nyazema, Ph.D., is a clinical pharmacologist and pharmacy professor at the University of Limpopo, South Africa

There is a Sanctuary attached to the tourist safari. Its primary focus is on the preservation of the crocodile and its habitat. Young crocodiles are playmates with young turtles which are both nurtured until they are strong enough to be released in to the wild.

The Black river wetlands habitat is an important resource and legacy for the people of Jamaica. Long may it remain intact and viable.