What You Discover When You Spend time With The Giant Tortoises on Changuu Island, Zanzibar

They may be slow, but the Giant Tortoise,  (Aldabrachelys gigantea ), tortoises (originating from  Aldabra Island), have seen more history than we can ever imagine.  These tortoises can live to be well over a hundred years old.  It is an amazing experience to spend time with the Giant tortoises and discover their history.

Backdrop

During the 1930’s to 40’s, these beautiful creatures were used for “sport”  in races.  Imagine sitting on the backs of these giant tortoises and hitting them with sticks to make them move beyond their capacity.  Not only were they hit hard, but they were often hit so hard that their shells would break.  You can still see some of the tortoises with damaged shells today on the island.

Prison Island

Luckily, Changuu Island, or Prison island as it is also known, has provided a safe haven for this particular magnificent giant tortoise.  In contrast to their human counterparts who cross the sea from Africa, facing unhappy countries who willingly take the material resources but not the people from the continent.

Throughout the world most Giant Tortoise populations have been decimated. However, a home has been provided here via this former private island which is now owned by the government of Zanzibar. It is located 5.6 km (3.5 mi) north-west of Stone Town. As a  private island it was a detention centre for non compliant slaves, then a prison was built there in 1893.  It was never actually used as a prison, according to one version of the story, but as a quarantine area for outbreaks of cholera, and bubonic plague in the region. The other story states that the British used it for prisoners from mainland Tanzania convicted of serious crimes.

The Zanzibar government, in conjunction with the World Society for the Protection of Animals, provide a protected sanctuary  for the tortoises.  The number of tortoises in residence has varied over the years. Now there are well over 100, and all tortoises have microchips inserted for identity and protection.

Fauna Refugees

The Zanzibari/British Nobel Prize Laureate, Abdulrazak Gurnah, speaks of the colonial desecration of culture, and its consequence of displacement, not only physically but also spiritually in his novels. Some of tortoises on Changuu Zanzibar were also par for the course. Through nature we see how we are all connected. Indeed, their lifespans cover Omani, German, and British colonialism, leaving them scarred and displaced. Fauna refugees seeking asylum on an island which is not their native land.

Those who came after us had their post-colonial disappointments and their own self-delusions to comfort them, and perhaps did not see clearly, or in great enough depth, the way in which the colonial encounter had transformed our lives, that our corruptions and misrule were in some measure also part of that colonial legacy.

Abdulrazak Gurnah, 2021, Nobel Prize Winner for Literature

Karibu

‘Karibu’ is a word you will hear often on the island. It means ‘Welcome’ in Kiswahili. If you happen to be on the island, do as the Tortoises do, take it slow. Like Aesop’s fable of the ‘Hare and the Tortoise’, there is more to be gained with a slow and steady pace than rushing through your travel day.

With each wave of tourists from particular countries, be it Italians, Germans or Russians, the locals adapt. The Swahili culture on the mainland is bathed in Islam, with sprinkles of Christianity, which co-exist in a social masala mix.

Fine Sand Beaches

Changuu, with it’s perfect white sand beaches cradled by azul waters, is a beautiful place to reflect on displacement, the treatment of those displaced and their survival. This island is a holding place, and has been a marine park and sanctuary since 1990s for, as the first nation people say, ‘ all our relations’. It would be wonderful for these relations to have access to an environment closer to their natural habitat, where humans can observe at a distance. Nonetheless, you know the caring guardians, and the government are doing the best with what they have. Hopefully, with the funds raised from the increasing tourist traffic they can make this happen.

As the Primatologist, Jane Goodall says:

“It is inevitable that more and more species will need a helping had if they are to continue to share the planet with us. So it is fortunate that increasing numbers of people are waking up, becoming aware of the damage we are inflicting on the web of life, and wanting to do their bit to help, whether as wildlife biologists, government officials, or concerned citizens.”

Jane Goodall – Hope for the Animals and Their World

How to get There

Between the Palace of Wonders, and the harbour in Stone Town are boat owners ready to negotiate a price for the 30 minute trip to the island. It is best to leave early as crowds start to arrive by mid morning. Refreshments are offered on the Prison island restaurant.

Changuu is the perfect place to reflect on the topics of migration, displacement, survival, and home. The tortoises have found a home and their survival is assured for the present.